Any ideas of prefab soltions? I'm looking a 1" black pipe, cut in half and painted, then hose clamped around the PVC. Got the pipe cut in ~half length-wise and now need to cut each section to length. Then it's just hose clamping the 0.75/0.25 sections around the installed pipe.

I think that's a good idea.  In the past I have just threaded the wire through a pipe as it entered the building.

I just finished the first of two coats of paint in our basement bathroom.  I guess it'll be two hours until I can apply the second coat.

We bought this place last summer. It had been on the market for over a year and was at a substantial discount to similar nearby properties.  Nothing was wrong that some paint and TLC couldn't cure--it was well cared for.  But some of the paint choices were best described as unique.  The previous owner had painted this bathroom neon lime green. We've chosen a light blueish gray that shouldn't be jarring when the lights are turned on.

I dunno, maybe HGTV has buyers thinking that they're entitled to have a seller redecorate according to current trends. But I always had the impression when my family moved as a kid that any redecorating was the buyers' concern--the seller just had to be responsible for everything working.

Did some laundry a day early.

Replaced all the rollers on my garage door. One busted roller begat a full set replacement, nylon for steel. Coincidentally, much quieter now!
LT

Staining the concrete around the pool. Mrs.Mini picked out the color, I hope I like it when it dries.

Quote from: Leanintree on July 27, 2020, 09:11:01 PM

Replaced all the rollers on my garage door. One busted roller begat a full set replacement, nylon for steel. Coincidentally, much quieter now!
LT

Hmmm...   Something for the list. I like that idea.

A pair of new steel rollers (online) was $25... Nylon units (with bearings) were $16 for a set of 10 and delivered next day. No brainer.

Just for giggles, I ran the db meter app on my phone, busted roller and steel all around- 67.5db. New nylon rollers after 20 min of work, 62db. Not scientific, but I concur it feels a lot quieter...
 LT

killed thistles..

Today, I retired from 50 years of working for mental health services.

Let me be the first...

Congratulations

I retired - after working part time for 5 years - on June 30th. 

I’m very happy to say I completely wasted away the past 30 days.   Never been better

Today, I retired from 50 years of working for mental health services.

Congratulations and thank goodness....

Congratulations, Papa!

Today, I retired from 50 years of working for mental health services.

Congrats!  You'll enjoy it!

Can I have dog now please?

Installed a f@$#%£@$ing ceiling fan. I’ve done about 30 of the dammed things and it’s always been a royal pita. The transmitters are too big and squeezing everything in under the cover is tough. Today the fine fellow who manufactured the thing decided to make the safety cable slip noose a non slip version. Thanks for that JERK!
FYI ceiling fans don’t bounce well on hardwood floors.

Mildly moto related, but not to the bikes.

New tires for the wifes Xterra... love new tires, but shop swore that one valve stem was bent so they replaced it and the low tire sensor. Which necessitated a flash from their in house flasher thingy for reprogram. Which of course didn't work. I researched it, reset all tires 3psi differently, and did the 'paper clip trick' that involves, well... cramming a paper clip into a connector under the dash and grounding it out 6 times in 10 seconds. But it works. puts the sensors in re-learn mode, they do their thing after a quick run around the block. top off tires, and away she goes.

Then I did tie rods on my old pickup. Who knew that the creaks I've been hearing were steering, not suspension? tightened it up somewhat, may dig in farther if it feels necessary.

LT

M.Brane (with assistance from the neighbor, the shop manual, and the Acurazine forum) kindly replaced the dampers in the struts of the sport-touring Acura. 

That was a 6-hour job and we have access to a lift, power tools, and a spring compressor. Can't imagine how much that would have cost at the stealer. You have to take the rear seat out to replace the rear struts.

But boy howdy she is not wallowing like a fat pig now. All four were spent....

I just finished the first coat of paint in a spare bedroom.  The PO had painted it an inoffensive soft mellow butter color, but the walls were a bit banged up from furniture, there were numerous holes from pictures (they must have changed the room around a few times), and we evidently have the third set of window treatments judging from all the various screw holes near the windows.  So it was time for a change.  We picked a soft blue with a hint of grey for a pleasant sleepytime feeling.

I'll be able to start the second coat in about 1 1/2 hours.

Today, I called "Tuesday" "Monday".

Retirement is like that.

Then I replaced 2 cheap LED pot lights because the darn things take over 5 seconds to come on. At 186,000 miles per second my switch must be 930,000 miles from the fixtures.

Tomorrow I’m going to work on the toy hauler (the one we can’t take to any STO meets and also the one we likely won’t take to Florida next winter)

I also like the part where I don’t bother reading the instructions since I’ve installed a ton of these things and then I sit down for a coffee and look at the stupid book only to discover that the supply line is supposed to be 12 gauge wire. Houses are wired with 14 gauge normally except for specialty outlets.
I’m not rewiring the fan supply so I’m happy the load is just a few LED’s.

WTF? I have done residential electric for years (was a helper for a while and then years of DIY projects for me and others that don't require a license to do). 12 ga copper for 120v AC is code in the 2 states I've lived in (for a while in the very late 70s there was also aluminum wire but you have to up-spec it 1 or 2 sizes because it has more resistance than copper). 14 ga would be constrained to low voltage (like the 24v door bell transformer).

(240v copper is 10 ga brw)

Quote from: Eh2zed on August 04, 2020, 04:14:02 PM

Then I replaced 2 cheap LED pot lights because the darn things take over 5 seconds to come on. At 186,000 miles per second my switch must be 930,000 miles from the fixtures.

Not quite clear on the concept, methinks. 

Yeah, it appears Eh2zed mistakenly used the speed of light in a vacuum to calculate the distance to his switch, and everyone knows it is faster in the rest of the world than here in USA because they measure it in kilometers.   

Quote from: Bounce on August 05, 2020, 08:04:40 AM

WTF? I have done residential electric for years (was a helper for a while and then years of DIY projects for me and others that don't require a license to do). 12 ga copper for 120v AC is code in the 2 states I've lived in (for a while in the very late 70s there was also aluminum wire but you have to up-spec it 1 or 2 sizes because it has more resistance than copper). 14 ga would be constrained to low voltage (like the 24v door bell transformer).

(240v copper is 10 ga brw)

Standard 15amp circuits require 14 ga.
20amp needs 12 ga
Doorbells require leftover string from tin can telephones
And 240v wire size depends on the amp load (ovens, water heaters, clothes dryers,...) 10ga is inadequate in many applications.

And since ever house we ever wired was 20 amp for 120, that would make sense. Why would you wire a house and artificially limit it when all the 120 could be either?

Also I wired my own house and split the loads all over so every room is on more than 1 circuit. And since any excess load would blow the breaker I didn’t have to worry about burning up any wiring. My kitchen outlets are all 12ga. Any outlets that could potentially get a heavier load are dedicated (for example I considered the possibility that I would need an electric heater in the basement so there’s a dedicated outlet for that.)
And then there’s another reason...over the years I collected hundreds of feet of leftover 14ga wire in lengths longer than about 10 feet. Free wire rocks!

Since a builder doesn't know who (and how) the house will be used after sale, wiring it within code and for reasonable eventualities would sure seem to indicate 12.

I can honestly say that I always ran 12 Romex anywhere (for 120v) in a residential built other than for low voltage lights (with relays) and for the bell transformer. Everything on 120 was 12.  Codes are different everywhere. I hear that in CA residential builds often call for commercial style approaches (conduit and wire pulling) but it would sure drive up the cost of houses if so. For 2 years, our town called for the 120 outlets to be installed ground-up (so if a plug came loose and something fell across the tines, it would contact the ground). I was flummoxed as to why and had to ask. After 2 years, they went back to the way the rest of the state does. Everything plugs in upside down (ugh) which often means cords run "up" out of the outlet (ugh part 2). As I get bored, I've flipped them over to the normal way but there are a few behind furniture that are still upside down.

Again, codes are codes but aren't always universally in lock step.

2 states
many many houses
all 120 in 12.

Code here is #14 15A for residential and #12 for commercial and industrial except they use 15A breakers for safety.
When installing equipment in commercial buildings we would have an electrician come in to replace the sockets and breakers for 20A when we needed them.

Without rewiring the runs to 12ga?

No wonder you called an electrician (which is what we were - and makes my case for me... thanks). Better to buy once, cry once and be done with it. Cheaper than paying to have someone come back and pull new runs after original construction.