Last tuesday, a friend and I wandered off the beaten path down a dusty side road east of Ensenada, Mexico.
This was the turn from the highway:
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loginKevin had seen a sign that had said "Baked Sheeps" and figured they meant roast lamb. He knew my preferences tend to that direction, so we went exploring.
After following signs that said "Vena Cava" (which is a great name for a winery in a Spanish-speaking land) we stumbled upon this roach coach, parked in a gravel paring lot.
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loginTo the right was the seating area, complete with fake pond. The shade over the benches was made from grape irrigation line all woven together. Repurposing was a major theme, as you'll see.
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loginOpposite the seating are was the winery itself: Vena Cava.
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loginYes, those are the hulls of some old fishing boats that are being used for the roofs of the cellars. The owner, a guy from named Phil (from Manchester, England) had been a sailor in his younger days and liked the idea of somehow melding the two phases of his life together.
Here are some of the casks in the cellar:
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loginNotice the upturned hull for a roof. See all those little round spotlights? At first, I thought they were made from the bottoms of wine bottles, but that wasn't the case.
Here are the taps they use for bottling.
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loginHere's the answer to what the little skylights were made from:
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loginIt turns out there's an eyeglass lens factory in Ensenada, and occasionally the blanks have flaws of some sort, so they just throw them away. Phil scored a ton of them, and repurposed them. Notice how some of the lenses are bifocals.
Anyhow, after talking to Phil and getting the tour of the operation, I mentioned that it didn't look as if the roach coach was open for lunch. Phil explained that in the off-season they're only open on weekends, but suggested the restaurant around the corner, called "Corazon De La Tierra".
"Go down this road here," he explained, pointing to one of the vineyard access roads, bumpy with rocks and in need of grading. "Turn right at the top of the hill. Go past the chicken coop that looks like a church and the car park will be on the left."
Here's the chicken coop (notice the black rooster in the shade on the left side):
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loginHere's a shot of the inside of the restaurant. All the ceiling beams and flooring, as well as the tables, are made from glue-lam engineered wood. The garden in the background is where they grow all of the produce used in their kitchen.
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loginWhat we had absolutely no idea of going in was that this little restaurant, way far off the beaten path down a succession of bumpy dirt roads, happens to be one of the best in the world, according to Condé Nast Traveller. Seriously-
number 30 in the list of 50 best restaurants in all of Latin America.
There is no menu, per se. Lunch is a six-course affair, with a couple of little appetizers beforehand. We were the only diners there on a tuesday afternoon, but the chefs were busy getting things ready for the dinner rush. It's hard to see the kitchen staff in this picture- sorry, I should have done a better job of taking their picture.
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loginNow, pictures of food, starting with the salad:
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loginRemember, all of the vegetables they use in this restaurant come from within 100 yards of the kitchen itself, We could watch the restaurant's gardener harvest what we were going to be eating a few minutes later.
As I said, there is no menu to choose from, but they do ask if there are things they should not cook for you. I don't like seafood of any kind, so they made me this beet soup in lieu of the shrimp soup that would have been served. The shrimp was from Ensenada fishermen, and caught the night before.
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loginThe next course was a crispy fried duck. The brown sauce was made from refried pinto beans, a nod to traditional Mexican cuisine.
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loginNext were some grilled mushrooms. Kevin had what would be considered the regular item, which was sea bass.
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loginThe white cream on the right was lime rind purée. Freaking amazing.
The main course was boneless quail, served on a handmade plate.
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loginThe white things that look like flower petals were paper-thin-sliced garlic, and there were several varieties of grilled peppers. Absolutely mind-blowing.
After that was a palate-cleanser, an anise and lavender ice.
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loginDessert almost escaped photography- I ate mine too fast to remember to take a picture:
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loginFortunately, Kevin didn't devour his quite so quickly so I got a shot of half of it, at least.
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loginI forget what the missing parts were, but in this picture the things that look as if they might be white chocolate are actually merengue shavings, with date paste in the center of the plate, fried sweet banana on the left and a chunk of ripe mango in front.
We washed it all down with a nice (but honestly, not great ) Cabernet Sauvignon and then some decent Tempranillo from the Vena Cava winery.
All in all, an incredibly serendipitous venture into exploring the Ensenada back country. I'm already making plans to return- maybe even tomorrow.