Sport-Touring
The Lounge => EOE: Experts On Everything => Topic started by: sodapop6620 on September 24, 2018, 06:09:51 AM
-
So what does everyone use to waterproof their boots? And how often do you reapply the waterproofing?
Thanks for the info.
-
Dubbin, once a year. I've found that its never the material that springs a leak, it's always the seams (sewing) or bonding between sole and boot. My 2 month old Sidi Way Rains sprung a leak at the toe. Yet my 7 year old Tourmaster boots are still dry as a bone. Guess 'getting what you pay for' is bullshit.
-
I buy goretex boots. ;D
Otherwise, a liberal coating of mink oil seems to do a decent job on the leather itself. The real issue is usually the seams.
-
Depends if they are leather or textile.
-
I buy goretex boots. ;D
:withstupid:
I've found that modifying an existing product takes time and money while buying a product w/ those modifications already done only takes money. I can make more money but making more time still eludes me. And my perspective on both of those things is changing dramatically as I get older. #Iknownothelpful
-
Before GoreTex, I used to use SnoSeal on boots and gloves.
-
I buy goretex boots. ;D
:withstupid:
I've found that modifying an existing product takes time and money while buying a product w/ those modifications already done only takes money. I can make more money but making more time still eludes me. And my perspective on both of those things is changing dramatically as I get older. #Iknownothelpful
:withstupid:
Same here. My gortex Oxtar boots are probably 12-14 years old and still waterproof. I have not done a thing to them in that time and they look it.
-
I've been using Nikwax fabric and leather on my Goretex boots.
-
lard
don't be silly, I buy Goretex.
-
Depends if they are leather or textile.
Leather.
Thanks for the replies.
-
I have been using Mink oil for years, seems to be doing it's job feet are dry
Also have been riding with Daytona boots so maybe that is why the feet have been dry
-
I use 100% pure neatsfoot oil on leather, but don't expect it to be waterproof. Neatsfoot prime and most mink oils have silicone added, which helps repel water but dries out the leather, and it won't last as long. If you really need waterproof, get gore-tex.
-
I like dry and warm feet. I don't think there are any gortex mc boots.
-
I like dry and warm feet. I don't think there are any gortex mc boots.
You're kidding. Right???
https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle-boots#page=1&sort=featured&limit=96&facets%5B%5D=693&price=&price_min=3&price_max=600&is_new=false&is_sale=false&is_made_in_usa=false&has_video=false&is_holiday=false&is_blemished=false (https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle-boots#page=1&sort=featured&limit=96&facets%5B%5D=693&price=&price_min=3&price_max=600&is_new=false&is_sale=false&is_made_in_usa=false&has_video=false&is_holiday=false&is_blemished=false)
-
I'm so very glad you asked!!
I went to look at the products I use to give you their names, and found that the silicone water-guard is empty (or dried up). So I now know that I need to find a replacement before spring.
I also use Seam Sealer 3 (Kenyon brand) and have plenty left after many years of use - but I only use it on my cool weather boots.
-
I like dry and warm feet. I don't think there are any gortex mc boots.
I know my feet are warm and dry when I ride. Daytona Boots have gortex, I am just now on my second pare after 7 years (wore the soles out from dragging feet and pivot-pegs without covers)
-
lard
don't be silly, I buy Goretex.
THIS
I worked in the lab for Kiwi for many years. I did a lot of work on some of those products.
Liquid products were cross-linking siloxanes. Paste products were a mix of the branding agent (e.g. Dubbin or mink oil), microcrystalline waxes & various oils, etc.
All are about equally effective as lard, but don't taste nearly as good.
They are good products - efficaciousness on initial application - the problem is leather flexes and cracks which allows water to penetrate.
(I used to make waterproof paper napkins [with an invisible non-greasy formulation] in the lab for fun; they work great until you fold them.)
I put a base application of Camp Dry on my non-Gortex boots followed by annual coatings of Dubbin.
They'll keep my feet dry for 20 minutes in downpour and maybe an hour or 2 in a light drizzle.
Plus Dubbin helps retain warmth, which in my mind is the primary benefit.
End result is warm, smelly wet feet. So I use those boots for short overnight or day rides when the weather outlook is good.
If you apply a water proofing treatment, 2 light coats usually work better than one heavy coat.
Two or 3 coats usually produces maximum protection. Frequent light re-coating works better than several heavy coats.
Gortex works better until the fabric stretches around the stitching, which after several years will start to leak.
After 8 years, my right Gortex boot developed a leak.
Can't complain too much about that
I'm pretty much convinced there is no such thing as waterproof above 60 mph on a motorcycle, unless it's a Gold Wing.
-
My motorcycle boots are Gore-tex lined of course. However, I use Langlitz leather dressing on my work boots. Twice a year. I use it on my motorcycle boots as well. It keeps the leather supple and moisturized.
-
I like dry and warm feet. I don't think there are any gortex mc boots.
HA!
Been using Gore-tex boots for a long time. TCX used to be Oxtar and they make a great Goretex boot. I then look for something to "treat" them with that allows the leather to breath (so no shoe polish or mink oil). I've found the same product works for my leather seat as my boots. IMO that's Lexol.
http://www.fjr-tips.org/maint/LeatherCarProducts.pdf (http://www.fjr-tips.org/maint/LeatherCarProducts.pdf)
http://www.motorcyclegear.com/street/closeouts/last_chance_bargains/oxtar/matrix_goretex_motorcycle_boots.html (http://www.motorcyclegear.com/street/closeouts/last_chance_bargains/oxtar/matrix_goretex_motorcycle_boots.html)
-
Camp dry or any silicone based spray will do the job.